Curls and colour are the two things clients ask us about most, and sooner or later somebody wants both. Maybe you have had foils for years and now want texture through the mid-lengths. Maybe you permed last winter and fancy going warmer for summer. Either way, the question lands the same way: is it safe to perm hair that has already been through a chemical service?
The honest answer is that it depends far less on whether your hair is coloured and far more on what kind of colour it is, how often you have it done, and what condition your hair is in on the day.
The short answer
Hair that has been tinted or coloured with a permanent or demi-permanent shade can usually take a perm perfectly well, provided the hair is in good condition, and the timing is right. Bleached hair is a much more careful conversation. It is not an automatic no, but it is never an automatic yes either, and the assessment matters more than the ambition.
Why colour changes the chemistry
A perm works by breaking the disulphide bonds that hold your hair in its natural shape, wrapping the hair around a rod, then using a neutraliser to reform those bonds in the new position. It is a controlled bit of chemistry, and it relies on there being enough healthy bond structure to work with in the first place.
Colouring, especially anything that lifts, has already opened the cuticle and used up some of that structural reserve. Lightened hair is more porous, which means it soaks up the perm solution faster and processes quicker than virgin hair. Left on for the timing a stylist would use on untouched hair, that same solution can go past the point of forming a curl and start weakening the strand instead. This is why professional perming is never a set-and-forget service on treated hair.
Not all colour carries the same risk
There is a big difference between a root tint and a full head of bleach, and lumping them together leads to bad decisions.
Semi- and demi-permanent colour sits mostly on the surface and rarely causes a problem. Permanent single process colour, particularly darker shades, generally perms well. Foils, balayage and highlights sit in the middle, since the lightened pieces will process differently from the unlightened ones around them, which is something your stylist has to plan for rather than ignore.
Global bleach, platinum blonde and anything that has been lifted repeatedly is where we get cautious. So is box dye, because we cannot always tell what is in it. Henna and any colour containing metallic salts is a genuine hard stop, since those can react unpredictably with perm solution and cause heat, smoke or breakage. If you have used henna, say so before anything else happens.
Order of operations matters
If you want both services, perm first and colour afterwards. The neutraliser used at the end of a perm is oxidative, so it can lift existing colour by roughly half a shade to a full shade and shift the tone, often warmer. Colouring first and perming second means paying for a colour you are about to change.
Between the two services, allow around two weeks. That gap lets the cuticle settle, and the hair rebalance before it takes on a second chemical process. Rushing it is the single most common reason a client ends up with a curl that will not hold and ends that feel like straw.
What we check before saying yes
A proper assessment starts with your hair history. When was the last lightening service, what has been used at home, and has the hair ever been chemically straightened? We look at porosity and elasticity, gently stretching a wet strand to see whether it returns or snaps, because hair that will not spring back will not hold a curl either.
We will usually take a test curl on a small hidden section before committing to a full head. It costs a little time and saves a great deal of regret. If the hair needs strengthening first, a course of professional hair treatments before the perm is a far better use of your money than pushing ahead and repairing damage later.
When the answer is not yet
There are times we will say wait. Freshly bleached hair, visible breakage along the mid-lengths, or a scalp that is irritated or broken all mean the perm goes in the diary for another day.
One rule has no flexibility at all. Hair that has been chemically straightened, relaxed or given a strong smoothing service cannot be permed while that hair remains on your head. The two processes work against each other, and the result is breakage, not curl. You wait for it to grow out. Nobody enjoys hearing this, but it is the difference between a disappointing appointment and a haircut you did not choose.
Looking after hair that is both permed and coloured
Double processed hair earns its keep with maintenance. Use a sulphate-free shampoo and wash less often than you think you need to. Condition every wash, and add a weekly mask. Detangle with your fingers or a wide-tooth comb while conditioner is still in; never brush curls dry, and let hair air dry or use a diffuser on low heat.
Heat protection is not optional, and neither is a decent leave-in. If you are unsure what suits your combination of curl pattern and colour, ask at your next cut and blow dry rather than guessing in a chemist aisle.
Frequently Asked Questions
Will a perm change my hair colour?
Often, slightly. The neutralising step is oxidative, so it can lift your existing colour by around half a shade to a shade and pull the tone warmer. This is why we perm first and colour second, usually about two weeks apart, so the final shade is the one you actually walk out with.
Can I perm hair that has been bleached blonde?
Sometimes, but it depends entirely on how much lift the hair has taken and what condition it is in now. Hair lightened once and well maintained is a different case from hair that has been taken to platinum repeatedly. A test curl on a hidden section tells us more than any general rule can.
I have had a keratin smoothing treatment. Can I still get a perm?
Not while that treated hair is still on your head. Smoothing and perming pull the hair in opposite directions, and combining them risks serious breakage. Once the treated lengths have grown out or been cut off, we can look at it again.
How soon after a perm can I wash my hair?
Give it around 48 hours. The bonds are still settling in their new shape, and washing or tying the hair up too early can loosen the curl before it has properly set. Sleep on it gently for the first couple of nights too.
Transform Your Look with Hair Crew & Co.
Not sure which side of the line your hair falls on?
That is exactly what a test curl is for. Bring us your hair history, including anything you have done at home, and one of our stylists will assess porosity, elasticity and colour depth before anyone reaches for a rod. If your hair is ready, we will book the perm. If it needs strengthening first, we will tell you that instead.
Two salons, both open seven days.
Parramatta
Shop 5078/159-175 Church St, Parramatta NSW 2150
02 9687 3313
Blacktown
Westpoint Shopping Centre, Shop 3070, Level 3/17 Patrick Street, Blacktown NSW 2148 (Level 3)
02 9674 2076
info@haircrewandco.com.au | haircrewandco.com.au
For same-day appointments, please call the salon directly.
